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Contributed by: AmyJ Email w/Questions: |
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Notions and Fabric: [Accessories information is not included in this list]
This
jacket is new compared to one that has been featured on the site
before. In particular, the sleeves have been modified. They're a
closer comparison to the "true" jacket's sleeves. The
pattern I used to create this costume is New Look 6168. It is not a
unisex pattern, unfortunately, but the cut of the pattern is not
originally with what I guess you call "princess" seams
[the tailored shape to the torso]. This indicates to me that you can
probably adopt the pattern for men of smaller to average builds. As
with any pattern you should always look at the measurements of the
finished pattern as indicated on the back of the pattern envelope.
This will give you a good idea for size and fit.
Modifications
to this pattern:
The
pattern does not have the "panels" at the sides and the
back. I added these. I traced the original pattern onto large
sheets of craft paper. Then I sketched the shapes of the panel
pieces onto the art paper copies I made. Judging from the mock ups
of the patterns, I gave these new shapes a .5" seam
allowance. I repeated this for each new panel I wanted to
introduce into the pattern. So your end result would look like a
jigsaw puzzle of the larger finished pieces.
Next
Steps:
Once
you've made the modifications to the pattern to create the side
and back panels, you can cut the black vinyl and fabric pieces.
The time intensive part is giving the red panels the same
appearance as the uniforms as seen in A Bug's Life. Careful
inspection of vidcaps demonstrates that the red fabric is
decorated with black top stitching that forms widely spaced
parallel stripes. [See reference images above] I've been unable to
accurately discern the spacing of the stitching, but I feel that
the end result with the method I offer here, gives a fairly good
representation, although I am certain it's not identical.
After
you have cut the pieces of the pattern that are to be
red, line them up against the interfacing fabric with the 1"
grid. Trim the interfacing to the pattern shapes after securing
them with straight pins. Stitch along the pattern pieces with
black thread, following the interfacing's lines in a vertical
direction. Repeat this for all the pieces of red fabric. You're
just making "stripes" on the fabric. The exception to
this is the collar. You should assemble this part in a slightly
different manner.
Next,
assemble the pieces according to the steps in the pattern
instructions. You're going to be inserting the black piping that
the seams where the arms meet the torso; the back center panel
meets the back's side panels; the front panel meets the side-front
panels; the cuffs of the sleeves; the collar; and the bottom hem.
Note: You're going to want to insert the nylon webbing straps
across the front before you apply the two black side panels to the
front. Also, the nylon webbing straps that run down the arms from
shoulder to cuff should be stitched into place after you're added
the top stitching, but before you're ready to attached the arms to
the torso.
The
collar is a bit different from what is called for the
pattern/instructions. After you've trimmed the red [exterior] and
black [interior] fabric for the collar's pattern, trim a piece of
foam batting to fit inside the collar's outline with a .75"
of space. You're giving yourself room for the piping as well as
the top stitching you'll be doing to give the collar its ribbed
appearance. After pinning the foam batting to the red fabric, take
a marker or a felt pen and carefully draw slightly arched,
parallel lines the width of the collar. Make them about .75"
apart. These will be the lines you will follow for making the top
stitching for the collar, but you're going to be sewing through
the foam batting. Once you've added the top stitching to the
collar, stitch on your piping and then finish the collar off with
the black interior fabric.
Accessories/Finishing touches:  Granted,
your jacket's going to look like it just came "out of the
box". The actual uniforms as seen in the episodes look more
worn and broken in. Either you can wear it while you're mowing the
lawn or washing the dog, or you can use a little artistry to give
it that dingy appearance. Using a makeup sponge or stenciling
brush, you can add black cake shoe polish to the seams. Go lightly
and apply it in layers. Use a rag to work it in and remove excess,
but don't "buff" it. You want to keep it matte in
appearance, not make it shiny! Another suggestion is to use an
"airbrush" to apply light gray or brown to the seems and
edges. But unless you're used to working in this medium, stick to
the shoe polish.
 Chaps:
If
you look at images from The Hidden Memory or the Aeryn Sun action
figure, you'll notice that the red/black pants are actually
coverings like chaps that go over black leather pants. You can
find a pattern for chaps or you can make your own, which is what I
did. I used a piece of heavy canvas left over from another project
and cut it roughly into shapes that were close to that of the
finished result. I used trial and error to get the shape into a
basic pattern. When I was happy with the result, I used the canvas
pieces as my pattern for black faux suede and the red fabric [with
topstitching in black thread]. I used a piece of 2" wide
black webbing for the belt and a 2" black parachute clip to
form the buckle.
Gauntlets:
The
gauntlets were constructed from a combination of black vinyl,
black craft foam and soccer shin guards [youth size]. Everything
was painted flat black to give it a consistent appearance. The
clips were added later to give "surface excitement" to
the sides. Grey and rust colored paints were used to give more
detail and depth.
Boots
[half chaps]:
Suitability,
a business that specializes in clothing item sewing patterns for
equestrians, has an excellent pattern for half-chaps. Half chaps
are covers that slip over any shoe that will give it the
appearance of a boot. I used the Suitability pattern for half
chaps to make a pair out of black vinyl. I followed the
directions for the most part, but added black clips and nylon
straps to the sides to give the layered detail that's most
easily seen in Aeryn's footwear on the Aeryn Sun
"Irreversibly Contaminated" action figure.
Pulsegun
and holster:
These
were a created for me by Karl. You can access Pulsegun 101 if
you're interested in learning how to construct your own pulsegun
and holster.
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Commando
Jacket
